Monday, 22 February 2010

This is a Mans World. Or so we're told.

Working predominantly with women's fashion and being a girl - respectively, I take a half hearted backseat when it comes to menswear. It's difficult sometimes to get oh-so-excited when I see new men's shirts, ties, cufflinks or least of all; trainers. 

-- Shudder --

This may be because I am extremely hedonistic, and selfish in the respect that when it comes to researching into menswear I find the most exciting part glancing at their faces rather than their attire. (Proven by the fact Viet and I had a quick 5 minute google of Jamie Dornan today. Needless to say it wasn't for his spectacular outfit choices - although kudos because the man has style.)

Anyway, Oki-Ni is different. It's fresh (seven years translates to more like 7 months in this industry), its cool and it's not trying to shove fashion in anyones face i.e. its boy friendly.




It stocks classic labels such as McQueen, Fred Perry, Adidas, Maison Martin Margiela, Jil Sander, Levis, and Nike but also nurtures "New Faces of Menswear" such as up and coming designers like Mr Hare, Lou Dalton, Christopher Shannon, Karoline Kling, Odeur and Martine Rose. So far so good.

                                                          


It's also recently launched it's "archive" which is dedicated to promoting and celebrating brand history. The whole company has nudged me in the right direction to realise how important menswear is becoming. Long gone are the days it was fine for men to grab a tee from Topman that every other Tom, DICK and Harry owned.  Get your man online. http://www.oki-ni.com/
You will not regret it.
Oh, and they're pretty big music fans. Selling vinyls (YEES), cds, audio equipment, apparel and what not.
check it.

Here are some old school pictures of Maison Martin Margiela and Fred Perry. Not the people. The bits and bobs...no not even the clothes. Just clarifying.

" It [MMM] just seemed so anti-fashion in a way, and wasn't taking itself too seriously like a lot of the bigger brands that people were into towards the end of the 90s. For me, less is more."  - 'C'


'C'


 
-------------- FRED PERRY (below)
 
The Face's first issue which featured Terry Hall from The Specials wearing a black b-neck Fred Perry knit.





Sunday, 21 February 2010

The Golden Ticket

I am really dreadful at maths, anything numerical really or anything remotely to do with adding up vast sums.
What I do know though is that even without having to add it up, I can calculate (vaguely) how much money ST Style spent on booking bikes to collect LFW tickets. And it probably could have covered the month's salary they don't pay me.

I find the process of fashion week hilarious/ridiculous/annoying/stressful. Being on the verge of a nervous breakdown because Tiffanie Darke is missing a Twenty8Twelve ticket ---(cue gasps)
is apparently what should have been happening in my life on the friday morning just gone. And to an extent it was. But any PR who's worth their weight in tickets knows who the hell Tiffanie is. And I don't think it would matter if she rocked up tickeless, shoeless, with matted hair swigging on a bottle of Frosty Jacks - the woman would still be sat front row. (minus good old Frosty)



I sure as hell haven't got a better system to offer, except the stupid rule of maybe just the one PR company dealing with all ticket requests, sending them ALL out on recorded delivery, I don't know, a week (instead of a day) before the shows?! Just a suggestion. It's difficult and stressful and I don't think anybody minus top Editors enjoys the process of FW. And that's because they do nothing towards it.

Never request a ticket from a PR the day before/day of their client's show. Unless you have a death wish. Never tell a designer a skirt has a crease down the side 10 minutes before showtime, never tell the photographer he's just broken his lense, don't tell the Junior fashion editors they've not got seated tickets and don't let the models sit down in the clothes.


It's always manic, it's always stressful, it's always walking in heels and oh wait, it's already over.

I opened the Burberry tickets this week and felt all tingly. Gold plated cards. Very fierce. Very cool. Very limited. My mum asked me the other day what the point of all these shows were, because eventually everyone will see the collections in store anyway. I sighed and rolled my eyes a lot.

"MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMM. You don't even understand" But she's kind of got a point. Kind of.
But my response was simple. The fashion weeks are one big celebration. It rings in the new season in style (of course), it's a chance for up and coming designers to get recognised, it's a chance to give way to budding designers and it's a celebration of established designers proving once and for all (twice a year) why they're so in demand. It's validation of everything in fashion. And it's also an opportunity to network, to meet up with friends and to be a part of something that's really actually quite fucking fantastic.

......................fashion politics ay.

And why is everyone all of a sudden getting themselves in a flap re: Editors vs. Bloggers. Seriously?
Editorial // Blogging are worlds apart, regardless of the topic - be it fashion, food, film or fuck all.
Editorial takes days/weeks/months to prepare, it's about editing, compiling, researching into different angles of whatever Hilary Alexander has sitting in a bowl for flavour of the month. Blogging is sporadic, random, quick and fun. It's an update, editorial is an upgrade.



It's understandable that people may frown that when said out loud, a 13 year old girl should be put on the front row at Couture week is pretty ridiculous. But actually, its not.
If people like her blog, see it as influential and think her opinion is worth more than a leftover Chanel goodie bag then let her wear that ridiculous hat. Because hey, guess what? Its 2010 and although nobody believes robots will rule the world and we will invent flying cars - technology is advancing.


Hell, maybe next year Miss Wintour will kick off her Louboutins, throw down her Moncler fur coat and wack on the internet to watch the shows digitially. That's right. Shock horror that the riff raff can now (technically) sit front row and see the shows at the same time is compelling. Fuck priority - designers are beginning to realise how important it is to get their collection seen by not only top editors, but by the public. Because at the end of the day, even if you're promised a half page in i-D, they ain't coughing up for the collection.



Ps. Someone can now let Anna Wintour know she won't need to sleep with one eye open, Carine Roitfeld can stop holding her breathe and Alexandra Shulman can sit back from the edge of her seat. Your jobs at Vogue are all safe. PHEEEW.
Well...For now.

Smile for the camera, BITCHES.

TERRY -----><---- RICHARDSON

Mr Terry Richards has a way with cameras. He also has a pretty long and impressive list of celebrities he's managed to get behind his lense. Obama, Justin, Pamela, Courtney, Johnny (fit) and the whole Jackass crew, Lindsay, Pharell (double fit), Jake, Leonardo, Kate, Mary-Kate and Lil Wayne are amongst the many famous peeps that have agreed to let him take their pictures. Oh and his mum, sure.


He's done pretty much every publication worth their weight in advertisements and his pictures have a raw, tongue-in-cheek attitude. Pretty impressive when the majority of them are taken with a white backdrop.


He's got a ton of books, is mega successful and flicking through his books is a hell of a lot more interesting than whatever you're reading. Trust.




 Fuckin' Posers

Big Edie // Little Edie

This beautiful film shot by Albert and David Maysles in 1975 documents the everyday lives of Edith Beales --- x2

the eccentric cousins of Jackie O lived unusually in heartbreaking poverty in a run down old mansion in New York.

WATCH
         ITTTT. . . . .

"If you can't get a man to propose to you, you might as well be dead."     - EDITH 'LITTLE EDIE' BOUVIER BEALE
"...I don't like women in skirts and the best thing is to wear pantyhose...under a short skirt, I think. Then you have the pants under the skirt and then you can pull the stockings up over the pants underneath the skirt. And you can always take off the skirt and use it as a cape. So I think this is the best costume for today. " - EDITH 'LITTLE EDIE' BOUVIER BEALE

"You can't have your cake and eat it...."

- EDITH 'LITTLE EDIE' BOUVIER BEALE
 
"Oh, yes, I did. I did, I had my cake, loved it, masticated it, chewed it and had everything I wanted. "
-EDITH 'BIG EDIE' BOUVIER BEALE