"Back to Basics" - Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010

The curtain has closed on Milan Fashion Week and it's safe to say that the Italians have provided a week full of luxury and promise for 2010.

Although it was hard to whittle it down, I have picked the designers that, for me, brought back the quintessential Italian silhouette and asthetic of a natural glamour.

"Back to basics" quoted Alexander Shulman, and I heartily agree - this season for Milan it's gone back to the designers roots and they've given quirky twists to their collections.

Fendi showcased a delightful mix of pretty designs with a soft feminine touch. The ease of the clothes encapsulated a 'oh this? I just threw it on' attitude. The pastels and nudes blended beautifully with the injection of black. There was a cool mixture of high waisted pleated shorts to sleek and sexy dresses. Fendi ought to start taking orders now, Winter Schminter.

FENDI S/S 2010

Jil Sander

As with a lot of designers who showcased in Milan this Season, many have taken a light approach - to designs and with regards to colour. Many shows including Jil Sander, Gianfrance Ferre and Emilio Pucci  began their shows with light nude colours including beiges, browns and creams, but also including a sheer back element, whether it be a dress, trousers or jacket.

A contrast to London's loud prints and block colour, Milan kept a toned down neutral approach this year, which has been applauded. After all, we need all the choice we can get.

JIL SANDER S/S 2010

POST TO BE FINISHED WITH FURTHER PICTURES.

Moschino

The Moschino show provided the real 'pop' and attitude that Milan's laid back season needed. Amazing statement jewellery.

Roundup of LFW

There were some incredible collections last week At Somerset House and although summer is just about over, it has rekindled my love for those early morning walks, late night BBQs and festival fun, (roll on Glastonbury 2010).

Here are some of my highlights from LFW Spring/Summer 2010.

LUELLA

Luella provided an eye popping collection filled with brighter than bright colours of blue, yellow and pink. Teamed with flirty oversized bows as headpieces this collection embodied a fun asthetic with fresh prints, polka dots, heart shaped necklines. Also including exaggerated hips, flowing skirts and one beautiful double breasted blood red jacket.

LUELLA S/S 2010

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Of course the brand on everybody's lips this London Fashion Week, and rightly so. Creative Director Christopher Bailey has done a superb job of recreating this once chavtastic label into a fresh and much wanted one. The clean colour palette of creams, beiges, light pinks and purples, browns, greens, silvers and light greys provided a fantastic fusion with the beautiful draping, twisting and pleating on skirts and tops.

BURBERRY S/S 2010

DANIELLE SCUTT

Miss Scutt provided the perfect summer 'pop' collection using a mix of light fabrics including sheers, lace and silks. Her loud prints proved a fantasty theme mixed with frills and layers upon layers with a wide use of pinks, reds, creams, blacks and yellows. Pretty floral cross-over strapped dresses will be a key look for next Summer.

DANIELLE SCUTT S/S 2010
ERDEM

By far the best prints from LFW, using beautiful cuts on each print including high necks, v-necks, round necks, tiered and laced dresses. (Note: I really really want the cream lace mac!) Using bold oranges, creams and blues mixed with florals, the more than pretty collection showcases wonderful dresses.

ERDEM S/S 2010

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

Once again the understated queen of glamour provided a sleek collection that would dress any red carpet event. Made up of beautiful silks, feathers and sheer fabrics, Roksanda produced a collection full of exaggerated shoulders, sleek dresses, beautifully tailored trousers and not to mention those feathered open toes shoes the models strutted down the catwalk in. The emerald greens, blues and metallics supported the glamourous and well structed collection.

ROKSANDA ILINCIC S/S 2010

Still to come from LFW - Betty Jackson, Richard Nicoll, Mark Fast, Mulberry and more!

For more pictures and show reviews go to www.elleuk.com/catwalk

Louise Amstrup

During fashion week it is hard to have favourites - almost every collection is breathtaking if not innovative and exciting, but I feel very passionate about this when I say that Louise Amstrup's S/S 2010 Collection could by far be the best presentation at Vauxhall.


Firstly, the presentation itself was inspiring and different. Amstrup showed her collection on 14 grey mannequins and 4 real life models, posing opposite a wall of mirrors - some old, new, antique and collectable. Working with creative set designer Alex Cunningham to create an intriguing way of showing off the collection and giving a strong insight into Amstrup's creative process.

The models carried off the make up very well - a to die for smoky eye with pouty pale lips. (Heaven forbid if I even begun to try and carry this look off. However, if you think you can give it a run for it's money check out http://www.thefashionscout.com/ for an exclusive interview with Benefit's creative director Rachel Wood for top tips!)

The collection merged fantastically together and used a luxurious palette of soft greys, blacks and creams and a merge of all three colours to provide a cute print.

I can honestly say that each piece is extremely wearable. When the presentation hall opened, press and buyers filled up the room excitedly - I don't think Amstrup will be having any trouble trying to get this on our shop floors.

Even in her fourth season, Amstrup is growing from strength to strength. She expressed that her main inspiration for the collection had come from a "beautiful yet shattered surrounding".

The garments ranged from feminine silhouettes to structured and the draping on the collection was made all the more luxurious by the silks, chiffons and cottons used. Although Amstrup is only in her third year designing for her own label, this collection tells me, no infact, screams at me, that she is only just hotting up.

Romina Karamanea

Here are some exclusive backstage pictures from the Romina Karamanea show at VFS on Saturday.

After having an exclusive chat with her assistant, Renata, she exclaimed her sheer exitement of the new S/S 2010 Collection, "It's extremely futuristic and architectural. The shapes are very sharp and the main colour use being grey, off whites and black."

Romina herself concluded that the collection was modern yet 'robotic' and "there is a theme of disconnection as everything is precisely disjointed, proportionately."

Combined with sulty models who stalked beautifully down the runway, it is a huge success for the Saint Martin's Graduate who's work has been acknowledged by legendary fashion icons such as Isabella Blow and Franca Sozanni. Her third catwalk show to date, Romina is leading the way for emerging talent.

After the show had ended, Romina was (understandably) relaxed and cheerful - she looked extremely proud of herself, and so she should. A fantastic clean collection full of interesting silhouettes; a very cohesive collection.

Fashion Illustrators at VFS

Special notice needs to be given to the superbly talented ladies and gents at Fashion Scout - no words are needed, just their beautiful pictures. It's fair to say jealousy reigns free from every inch of my body - why wasn't I born this gifted?

All images can be found on http://www.thefashionscout.com/ under CATWALK ILLUSTRATIONS.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout

PHEW! London Fashion Week is over! And what a week it was. I had my first week interning with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in the absolutely stunning Freemason's Hall in Holborn. The team of about 50 girls were seperated into 4 catagories: Backstage, Front of House, Presentation Hall and Media Centre.

I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to do some blogging for the VFS Blog (check it out: http://www.thefashionscout.com/) and was put in the presentation room with 9 other girls for the week.

The presentation hall is an entirely new concept for Vauxhall and in my opinion (given the economic crisis) is the future of fashion - the new catwalk ladies! It is such a perfect opportunity for designers, stylists, editors, PRs, buyers etc to mingle with each other and more importantly - get up and close personally with the clothes!

Here is my day by day account of the shows in the presentation hall...

Friday was very hectic, with us having to set up for the Kingston Graduate Show (Interview with Rachal Lamb to follow). The two graduates - Niahm O'Connor and Rachal Lamb were superb - albeit slightly stressed. There were 3 showings and I was put backstage helping dress the models.

Niahm's collection boasts of a tongue-in-cheek altered sportswear with bright orange, blue and white being the central colours. Rachal kept to a more nude palet of soft pinks, oranges and beiges - with some truely breathtaking shorts and beautiful blouses.

More updates to follow, including the manic Hemya show, the want-it-all Romina Karamanea show, Louise Amstrup (incredible), Harriet's Muse, L.F. Markey and the menswear.

NIAMH O'CONNOR

RACHAL LAMB

Spybaby Vintage

BASEMENT BOUTIQUE

It is an undeniable fact that London is the UK’s home for all things vintage. With markets, charity shops and vintage alike it is a haven for those treasured collectable pieces in any fashion lover’s wardrobe. So, what happened when you don’t live in London? Luckily for some, there are boutiques around the UK that take pride in being the ‘spokes-shop’ for vintage. SpyBaby Vintage situated just out of Southampton is just what I’m talking about.

If ever there was a perfect location for a vintage shop, SpyBaby has taken it. As soon as you walk into Peter Rhodes Bookshop in Portswood there is an immediate feel of warmth and character as various individuals sip on their coffees whilst indulging in a spot of light reading. Travelling downstairs it feels gloriously mysterious as trinkets such as handbags, beautifully printed scarves and belts hang from the walls. Entering Spybaby can only be described as what one’s imagination would conjure up if Princess Diana, Marlene Dietrich and Audrey Hepburn shared a wardrobe.

As I turn to my right there is an old chest smothered with antique gold brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. There is about 6 rails packed with clothing from 1970s prom dresses to 1950s skirts and a wide diversity of jackets. Shoes sit on the tops of the walls and there are two rather large colourful piles of an assortment of clothing. Catherine Wright, the pioneer and owner of Spybaby apologises for the mess, ‘We’ve got so much stuff, we’re trying to organise it all but as you can see there isn’t a lot of space’.

I tell her not to be silly, as if I’m being perfectly honest; I like it this way. The point of owning a vintage shop is so your customers don’t browse, they search. We sit down for our interview and I can immediately tell that Catherine is the type of woman who was born to buy vintage.

The shop is lovely. How did the business start?
Well it started off with a personal collection of vintage which of course led to me having too many clothes. It was a sort of ‘one day I’ll wear this’ wardrobe. My inital though was to ebay it, so I did and it sold well, with a lot of things going to Milan, and I made a bit of money. I had some gorgeous Rger Vivier 1960s shoes which I sold.
In the beginning of 2008 I got this space in Portswood, there were a few disasters to start with but by June I was up and running.

So how long has the business been running?
About 3 years now.

What made you decide you wanted to go into this business?
I think I have a good eye for fashion, and I don’t like to buy brand new clothes, I think vintage understands more about fashion and in some ways its ahead of the fashion trends. Spybaby is a part of the British Boutique Movement and I’m proud of it.

Who are your style icons?
I don’t have or believe in style icons. I would rather style normal customers to fit in with what their personalities are, not anyone else’s. The customers have a real passion for vintage.

What is it you love about vintage?
The quality of the clothes, or the stories behind them. A lot of the things I buy are from the original owners so I know the story, which makes the item even more special. It’s like giving a new life to the clothes. There is too much mass production and I enjoy the details and fabrics in vintage. I’m not interested in the high street.

What is your favourite part of the job?
Buying and selling, definitely. Seeing the clothes come to life on a customer. They are like my babies. I keep a routine, and I enjoy looking for new items, it keeps a good flow to Spybaby.
What is the most treasured piece you’ve found?
An Aussie Clark dress. I’m the second owner. It’s like having a piece of fashion history.

Where do you source your vintage?
Everywhere. I’ve developed a good client base and made good contacts with vintage owners so partly through private individuals, charity shops, markets and auctions. I buy and sell so it’s a good flow. Clothes are very intimate items so its good to make sure you know what you’re buying.

What other businesses do you think are your competition?
Probably Beatnik Emporium (In Southampton). Other than that it’s London. We are a very niche shop in Portswood and around the area so it’s nice to see people really appreciate the shop. Some girls come down and not know about Spybaby and they actually let out a gasp or a cry. It’s wonderful to know I’m fulfilling vintage lover’s passions.

Where do you want to see the business in five years time?
Bigger! Although we have a nice feel to it, a ‘Basement Boutique’. I don’t want any industrial feel to the shop, although I need more room. There are plans to do up the shop, I still need to organise clothes and price them but it’s special and it fits into the aesthetic perfectly. We have a blog (http://spybabyvintage.blogspot.com/) and I also sell through eBay. I’m supporting fashion shows and music events. We have ‘SpyBaby Spies’ to make sure that word gets out about us!

I thank Catherine for her time and I suspect it won’t be long before those piles on the floor will be gone and replaced with yet more wonderful and unique items of exquisite clothing. I wish her the best of luck!